Exotic gardens, cars and
creatures - Helen Werin and her family find all these from the comfort
of a caravan at Christchurch, on the UK’s south coast.
From my bench above Friars Cliff beach at Christchurch I could see the
last rays of evening sunlight sparkling off the Needles across the bay.
Pretty idyllic, I would say.
It had only been a pleasant 10 minute stroll along a tree-lined
boulevard from where we were staying at Hoburne Park to reach the coast.
Hoburne’s location could not have been more perfect.
Seaside caravan holidays always spark recollections from my childhood of
an overwhelmingly damp and musty smell and my father cracking his head
on the low gas lamps. Our caravan at Hoburne Park bore absolutely no
resemblance to those from my memories. Indeed, it was rather luxurious.
No wonder I began to feel somewhat smug.
Earlier in the day we’d been to Compton Acres, in Poole - 10 acres of
magnificent gardens - which had proved surprisingly popular with our two
girls, Elena (17) and Sophie (six).
The thought of visiting gardens had initially wrought groans of horror
from Elena. But it was my birthday and I was choosing to go there. So it
was the proverbial icing on the cake that Elena and Sophie enjoyed
Compton Acres. So much so that Elena, in particular, had to be almost
dragged away.
Compton Acres’ charm, you see, lies in its series of themed gardens.
Secluded paths took us through a grotto to a very grand Italian garden
with exquisite statues of Bacchus, the god of wine and the famous
wrestlers of Herculaneum. In the Wooded Valley the peace was broken only
by the tinkling sounds of falling water; not rain, thank goodness, but
waterfalls cascading down rocky banks. Undoubtedly everyone’s favourite
was the delightful Japanese gardens, where stepping stones led us across
ponds filled with the biggest Koi carp I have ever seen to an authentic
tea house prettily draped with Japanese wisteria.
To cap it all, there were spectacular views over Poole Harbour to
Brownsea Island and the Isle of Purbeck beyond. Compton Acres is
justifiably hailed as a garden for all scenes, with colour and scent all
year round. Botanists and gardeners alike must almost think that they
have arrived in the Garden of Eden. To us it was an oasis of exceptional
beauty and calm in what is otherwise a very busy, touristy area.
If it all seemed to be too good to be true thus far, then fate soon took
a hand with the weather. The next day we found ourselves queuing with
hundreds of other weather-beaters outside the Oceanarium on
Bournemouth’s seafront. In fact, the queue was so long that it blocked
the turning circle of the little train that runs up and down the prom.
Thankfully, the queue moved very swiftly and we were soon inside with
our noses pressed up against hundreds of tanks.
In my experience, aquariums never fail to amuse whatever age you happen
to be. Bournemouth’s Oceanarium was no exception. A couple of huge
turtles were the stars of the show here. They could be seen from a
wooden platform above their tank and from an ‘underwater’ tunnel below
which we walked through to get a close up view of their fellow
occupants. These included sharks, rays with their ghost-like faces and
equally spooky-looking eels.
Unfortunately for us the Oceanarium’s latest attraction - the world’s
first Interactive Dive Cage - was out of order on the day of our visit.
The very appropriately-named general manager, James Eels, described it
as a “memorable” experience which educates visitors about creatures the
Oceanarium could never display, such as dolphins, great white sharks and
manta rays.
But the hiccup with this ‘virtual experience’ did not disappointment us.
After all, there were thousands of creatures to see and feeding
demonstrations to watch.
Despite the rain and wind, Bournemouth’s lovely beaches and long
promenade were busy with well-wrapped-up families eating ice cream and
candy floss under their umbrellas.
We beat a path back to our own ‘retreat’ at Hoburne. It seemed most
guests here stay on site for their entire visit, which is no surprise
considering the facilities. Even my husband, with his aversion to
hi-de-hi-like activities, was to make good use of them. Evenings found
him joining in the Sammy Seahorse club entertainment, which Sophie
obviously revelled in. Though I have to say it was me who had the
difficult job of dragging a very reluctant and over-excited Sophie out
of the disco at bedtime.
We could easily have filled our days in the heated indoor and outdoor
pools, complete with Jacuzzi and adjacent sauna, a fabulous adventure
play area for youngsters or playing crazy golf, mini bowling, pool,
snooker or tennis.
But we wanted to explore the wonderful coastline around these parts,
wander through the New Forest close by and visit a few of the many
attractions that this area has to offer. Though it is one of the most
popular holiday regions of the UK we only encountered the crowds in
Bournemouth. Elsewhere we enjoyed space and peace. Particularly so at
Buckler’s Hard, where we took a relaxing trip up the river aboard
Swiftsure and learnt something of the history of this tranquil spot on
the banks of the Beaulieu river. There is an interesting exhibition here
about the village’s history. Its’ claim to fame is as the place where
some of Nelson’s fleet were built, including Euryalus, Swiftsure and the
Admiral’s favourite, Agamemnon, all of which fought at the Battle of
Trafalgar.
We thought a trip to Lord Montagu’s famous motor museum nearby at
Beaulieu - of which Buckler’s Hard is part of the estate - might perk up
a somewhat tiring Elena.
Her interest was stirred, but maybe not shaken, by the James Bond
Experience, with cars and even boats from numerous films, including the
wonderful Lotus submarine car from The Spy Who Loved Me.
In the end, it was a fascinating exhibition about spies, The Secret
Army, centred on Beaulieu’s wartime role as a training centre for the
Special Operations Executive, which captivated her, and me, too. This
was the story of those men and many women agents who were trained at
large country houses around the Beaulieu Estate before being sent to
work with resistance groups throughout Europe. Many of them never
returned.
Even if you are not a car fan, it’s almost impossible not to find
something intriguing among the 250-plus exhibits at Beaulieu. Perhaps
there are vehicles which, like me, would take you down Memory Lane. I
found a little Hillman Imp just like one I owned briefly before the
engine gave out and an Austin Cambridge and an A40 from my childhood. If
you’re a sports car fanatic then you’d certainly be thrilled by the
display of four of the most famous World Land Speed Record Breakers,
including Donald Campbell’s Bluebird. There’s also the Autoglym
Supercars exhibition, which is running until next Spring, with such
‘exotic’ models as the Enzo Ferrari, Aston Martin Virage and the Bugatti
Veyron, the fastest, most powerful and expensive road car in the world.
Certainly Sophie loved riding on the open-topped bus and spotting Del
Boy’s Reliant Regal and Mr Bean’s Mini from the monorail which travelled
through the enormous hangars filled with vehicles.
The public relations lady for Beaulieu had told me how much she “loved”
the rain because it brought in the customers. Granted, most of the
attractions here are under cover. Nevertheless, it would be a shame to
overlook Beaulieu on any other day. For one, the drive here through the
New Forest is glorious. The 13th century Beaulieu Abbey, the pretty
gardens and Lord Montagu’s family home, with its Victorian ‘characters’
in attendance, are also well worth a visit in themselves.
It can be difficult, as anyone with a number of youngsters probably
knows, to try and please everybody on a family holiday. I felt that
staying at Hoburne, with its excellent facilities, location and
entertainment that was fun without being raucous, was a real plus for
us.
By the time we ended our last day with a walk along the prom again, this
time at nearby Barton on Sea, where the girls skimmed stones from the
pebbly beach and played ‘chicken’ with the incoming tide, I felt
supremely content.
Yes, indeed, our visit to the Christchurch area had been pretty idyllic
and showed us that you don’t have to chase the sun to foreign climes to
have a wonderful time.