Introduction
My husband Robin Weaver is a landscape photographer and always has to be
up early to catch the spectacular scenery of this part of the High Peak
in its best light. That’s why we stayed at Castleton, in late
September, as the crisp Autumn dawns are superb. Whilst Robin worked, my
daughters and I explored. The girls love it here because there’s plenty
to do whatever the weather. Just remember to take an extra layer of
clothing because you’re way above sea level here – nearby Buxton has the
‘honour’ of being the highest town in England.
Campsite
The Caravan Club’s site is just five minutes’ walk from Castleton. It
lies in the Hope Valley below Lose Hill, from which it takes its name.
Geared for year-round use, it’s got heated toilet blocks and a very
useful drying room. Lose Hill got its name following a crushing defeat
in a seventh century battle between rival kings. The successful army was
entrenched on nearby Win Hill – where else?
Day 1
Morning
Don your walking boots and head through Castleton, taking the old Chapel
en le Frith road to Mam Tor for an easy climb up the ancient hill fort.
Looking down you can see why they call this the Shivering Mountain. A
dramatic landslip creeps down its’ side and across the road below. This
road was originally built to bypass the steep limestone gorge out of
Castleton, called Winnats Pass. Now it’s as buckled and smashed as if it
belongs in an earthquake zone. It’s testament to an almost bulldozing
force of nature – and one which continues.
Afternoon
Don’t forget to take a picnic to enjoy as you watch the paragliders
soaring gracefully in the updrafts off Mam Tor. Castleton is renowned as
an outdoors adventure centre, with caving, rock climbing, abseiling and
potholing for all ages and abilities. (Peak Activities Ltd. 01433
650345). Many people come here just for the breathtaking views in every
direction, including the Edale Valley, Kinder, the Derwent Moors and
Stanage Edge. Continue walking towards Back Tor and back to Lose Hill
(eight miles).
Evening
Time to relax with an evening at the fine Edwardian Buxton Opera House (www.buxtonoperahouse.org.uk
0845 127 2190). It hosts a huge variety of shows, from Ardal O’Hanlon of
Father Ted/My Hero fame to the New English Contemporary Ballet, with
rockers Joe Brown, Dave Edmunds and Rick Wakeman and even Basil Brush
along the way. Dine at the very friendly Kwei Lin Chinese Restaurant in
Lower Hardwick Street (01298 22611).
Day 2
Morning
Leave your vehicle behind and take the pretty riverside path in
Castleton to the mouth of Peak Cavern. It’s an awesome place, with the
largest natural cave entrance in the UK. Until the late 19th century
this was home to a community of ropemakers. Some of their equipment and
what’s left of their tiny homes remains. Having bent over double in
Lumbago Walk through the cave, stretch yourself afterwards with a steep
climb up to what remains of 11th century Peveril Castle, directly above
the cavern, for more fabulous views.
Afternoon
Drive north to the impressive Ladybower, Derwent and Howden reservoirs
and wander through the peaceful pine woods. There are plenty of parking
spaces near the water’s edge. Derwent reservoir was famously used by the
RAF's 617 Squadron - the Dambusters - to practise low level flying
techniques during 1943, to prepare for dropping Barnes Wallis' 'bouncing
bombs' on German dams.
Evening
On the way back, take a short diversion to picturesque Hathersage, the
village of ‘Morton’ in Charlotte Bronte’s Jane Eyre. Bronte stayed at
the vicarage here and probably took the name Eyre from memorials to
local landowners of that name in the churchyard. The graveyard is also
reputedly home to the remains of Little John, Robin Hood’s statuesque
friend. In the Scotsman's Pack in School Lane (01433 650253) look out
for ‘his’ enormous chair. You might need it after trying the Packs’
range of food and ales.
