It was such a relief to arrive at the Camping and Caravanning Club’s Scarborough club site and see, even through the downpour, what a great location it was in. And, joy of joys, with a pub next door serving food, plus a chippy on site.
It was still raining unmercifully the following day, but the helpful Yorkshire Tourist Board website had directed us towards a number of all-weather attractions, including the Sea Life Centre at the top of the North Bay.
I’d gone in out of the rain, mostly for the girls’ benefit, with rather a “seen one, seen them all” attitude to such places, but was I in for a surprise. Penguins! There was a pool full of them, to be seen from an ‘underwater’ viewpoint as well as outdoors. There were also otters and a seal rescue centre, with wonderful views towards the landmark Scarborough Castle.
Even in grey drizzle, North Bay is spectacular. Best of all, we didn’t find any amusement arcades or other traditionally tacky enterprises here, just a blustery stroll along the lengthy prom.

We turned the corner before the bay wound down towards the headland which separates it from South Bay and it was like I’d stepped back in time. Peasholm Park looked just the same as it did over 30 years ago.
The pagoda-style entrances and the fairy lights strung between the trees; even the bandstand in the middle of the lake, were still there. The pretty, peaceful ambience hadn’t changed one bit.
I’ve always thought that the best thing about Scarborough, besides the lovely views, is that it has several ‘faces’, including the attraction of a second huge beach at South Bay. Though this has a very different atmosphere to its more northerly sister, with a string of the aforementioned businesses, it wasn’t half as brash as I remembered.

On the other hand, Filey, further south, appeared stuck in a rather appealing time warp. The shops here are quaint, to say the least. Curious window displays that looked like they belonged to the 1950s featured mannequins modelling what my mother would have called “costumes”.
The prom here, too, with its single amusement arcade, has also been smartened up. Just the place for another brisk stroll to work off what is probably the best Chinese meal I have ever had in Britain. It always pays to ask the locals for advice, otherwise we would never have found the Gold River restaurant tucked away in a side street.

Still feeling a bit lethargic from all the wonderful food the night before, we set off for a walk next day along the cliff top at Flamborough Head, with the North Sea on the horizon.
If it’s spectacular vistas that draw you, as they do us, then there’s plenty of them within short drives of Scarborough.
Robin Hood’s Bay is busy year-round with hardy walkers, as well as those who simply want to enjoy the picture-postcard scenery. But, be warned, once you are lured down to the bay there is a steep trek back up.
Partly to drag the girls away from the ubiquitous gift shops, we meandered through tiny cobbled alleys and discovered the most photogenic of views. At the water’s edge there is an excellent visitor centre, which is free. Interactive exhibits kept Sophie amused whilst we absorbed the fascinating history of this area, renowned for its smugglers.

For history buffs, there is no more mysterious and interesting a place than Whitby Abbey. The darkening storm clouds above gave it an even spookier feel as we drew nearer the headland, fuelled by the thought that Whitby was once the home of Bram Stoker, author of Dracula.
Whilst waiting for the rain to subside, we trawled the award-winning Visitors Centre inside Cholmley House, next to what remains of the abbey.
Here we learned about what life was like at various periods in the abbey’s history before venturing outside, armed with our audio tour handsets. Through these, we heard from such ‘characters’ as Brother William, who ‘told’ us about his life here in the 16th century.
A word of advice here. If you are going to visit Whitby town centre, then go early or you could have trouble parking as the town is very much a tourist magnet.
Which is how we came to find ourselves in a fascinating little museum overlooking the harbour entirely devoted to the life of Captain James Cook. Cook lodged in this very house in Grape Lane as an apprentice to ship owner, John Walker.
I was mindful that my daughters might not share my enthusiasm for studying the pictures, original letters, botanical prints and artefacts from Cook’s voyages, but it turned out to be a really interesting and, dare I say it, educational experience for them.

It was soon time to head away from the coast and we set off for Pickering and the North Yorks Moors Railway.
Again, Pickering is a very difficult place to find parking. Our train was packed with eager sightseers, most of whom were heading for Goathland and Heartbeat country. After a delightful chug through deserted countryside, we got off at the tiny station at Goathland and trudged up the hill towards what doubles as the Aidensfield garage and stores in the TV programme.
Unless you are a fan, it is probably better to stay on the train and enjoy one of the other stopping-off points at Grosmont, Newton Dale and Levisham as there is little else Goathland offers other than tourist mementoes.

Having determined to keep tabs on our purse strings, our last day found us at Bridlington. We could have spent a small fortune on fairground rides and in the shops. Instead we opted again for the best free enjoyment we all delighted in throughout the holiday - the coast itself.
We parked Roly on the clifftop above the town and strolled along the prom, in the process discovering an entirely different amusement.
A walk along the seafront here in certain weathers is not for those who like to stay dry. Along with countless other children, our two had the most fun trying to avoid the waves crashing over the barriers.
Obviously we were careful, but just seeing the huge walls of water splash down on the prom is a spectacle in itself.
In fact, watching as two laughing lads, in just tee shirts, repeatedly got soaked in their not-always-successful attempts to dodge the waves, it just about summed up the feeling I had at the end of our Yorkshire holiday of being “carefree”.

FACT FILE
www.siteseeker.co.uk for details of Scarborough and other sites.
www.yorkshirevisitor.com or call 08706 090 000 for a free guide.
www.cookmuseumwhitby.co.uk Call 01947 601900.
www.nymr.co.uk (North Yorks Moors Railway). Call 01751 472508 or 01751 473535 for talking timetable.
Scarborough Sealife and Marine Sanctuary. Call 01723 376125.
Whitby Abbey. Call 01947 603568.

WHAT THE SITE MANAGERS SAY
Of all the sites they have worked on, including Chertsey and Folkestone, Scarborough is the firm favourite of Ann Watson and her partner, Martin Tetlow.
Ann said: “People just love Scarborough. We are close enough to town without being in the centre of it. We have lovely views and really nice walks almost on our doorstep, including the Cleveland Way along the cliffs.
“I like going on the open topped bus which takes you between the north and south bays.
“Then there’s the cycle track a couple of minutes from the site which can take you all the way to Whitby. All in all, it’s just such a great spot”.

TIPS
*Pitch at the Scarborough site and leave your vehicle behind. A bus service runs into town, or you can walk. There’s a supermarket, with cash point, a mile away.
*Off-season you can use your parking ticket to move between the different parking areas in Scarborough itself.
*If you’re a fan of TV’s The Royal, look out for familiar settings. The series is filmed here.
*The North Sea is terribly cold. If you fancy a swim, there’s a lido at the North Bay.

EAT LOCAL
*Old Scalby Mills pub, in Scalby Mills Road (01723500449) near the sea life centre, is a converted 17th century watermill with a panoramic vista. Great selection of real ales.
*There is a fish and chip shop/small cafe on site serving locally caught fish as well as delicious breakfasts.
*Gold River Chinese Restaurant and Take Away, 29-31 Mitford Street, Filey. 01723 513679.

© Helen Werin